Around Bangalore

While Mehnoush had to work, I toured the city with Babu: we went by the Bull Temple, stopping in first at a Ganesh Temple nearby and another smaller temple which had 9 gods on a table. Babu prayed at each of the temples, and we each gave a bit of money into the collection boxes - for charity and temple upkeep. The Ganesh (in the form of an elephant, Ganesh is probably the most loved god to many Hindus) god was very large and seemed taller than I (and much fatter), tucked into an alcove at the back. Babu said that he was made of butter - certainly I must be misunderstanding something here! Seemed like a carving of stone or plaster and then painted.

The priests would occasionally come out of this alcove carrying a tray with a burning, smoky flame and a bowl of water which had herbs steeped in it to make it a yellow color. The faithful people line up, present their hands to the flame and pull the smoke toward them, inhaling it. The holy man ladles out the water into hands and people quickly wash their faces and drink the water also. Since I was in line, I also received the water and just followed along, stopping short of the drinking part. Not understanding what we were doing or why was a bit disconcerting; I would be interested to know the reasons behind the symbolism.

Asking Babu if photographs were allowed and receiving an affirmative, I took several shots, but it did feel like a violation of privacy. Imagining tourists lining up with flashbulbs at communion in a church just kind of took the interest of photography away.

The other smaller temple, with the table of 9 small gods was less commercialized. Babu and I went in, circled the table 3 times in a somber and prayerful mood, and then went out again. I asked where all the knowledge of the rituals came from; how does everyone know what these are, and what to do or how to act - his answer was that the parents know, or if they don’t then the grandparents will.

The Bull Temple was larger yet, with a huge Bull god (Nandi) in the center and two priests performing prayers with smoke, fire, gongs, and chants. Quite a few people (Indian tourists from elsewhere) were also visiting - although obviously tourists, most seemed to be Hindu and at least knew what to do there. I took a few more photos, and one group asked for a photo with me as well. It felt a bit more comfortable here, since the other tourists were also taking photos of everything in sight.

Our next stop was a walk through Lalbagh Park, a large botanical garden in the south of the city. There’s a large “glass house” at its center which is not a greenhouse as I suspected, but just a large pavilion with a glass roof on ironwork posts. We saw a number of birds, the most interesting being one of India’s more beautiful birds: a flycatcher with a beautiful orange, tan, white, and brilliant cyan coloring. Unfortunately, it flew off before I could make a positive ID. Rose-ringed parakeets, some drongos, an egret, and a bunch more birdlife made it difficult to keep walking since I could easily become immersed with searching through the book and finding out what they all are. But Babu was ready to walk, so we walked!

He asked if I would like to see some small streets next, and so we drove off to his family’s neighborhood. Indeed, the streets were very narrow alleyways, cows and chickens were roaming around at will, kids were playing cricket anyplace they could and there were several smaller temples in the area as well. I noticed quite a few Muslims who lived there; asked about it, Babu said that everyone was quite brotherly toward each other - seems like a common theme from most real people I meet.

Since it was now late afternoon and having not had lunch, we were both a bit hungry - so into a “hotel” (which is what Indians call a restaurant, whether or not it has any beds) we went. Masala Dosa is the specialty of the area - a paper-thin pancake like a crepe, with a stuffing of potatoes and onions and herbs. The cook adds a smear of red masala on the pancake, drizzles it in oil or butter! and then quickly rolls it around the filling. Yum! This place was a bit different though: the dosa was folded into a triangle and laid flat on the plate - very solidly filled all the way through too. So immediately hot and fresh, it’s the best dosa I’ve had in my life.

Afterward, we went for tea at Babu’s home, where I met his wife (15 years younger!) but missed seeing their 11 year old girl who was out for tutoring/studying. The family home was on three levels - the first, taken up completely by 6 or 7 silk power looms, all making saris out of silk thread. This had been his business before he became a driver, but they did not pay well at all - only a profit of 20 rupees per sari. So they are now operated on a cash-rent basis to others. On the second floor, his father was still living, along with sisters and sisters-in-law - I met them all, and we proceeded up the next flight of stairs to his own rooms - to the right, was the one room and kitchen for his family of three. To the left, was an identical room for his brother and his family. In the center was a common area with a TV and silk weaving equipment, and a small day bed. The whole house was kind of an open-air rectangular courtyard affair - steps were in the middle, and the rooms to the outside - and finally at the top floor was the laundry center, the potted plant for making the holy water we saw earlier.

In his room and kitchen, while his wife made us chai, he showed me the family’s temple area - we cannot enter it, because we weren’t cleaned, but this is where they do most prayer. Only for special days or reasons will they go to the public temples which he seemed to say would be there for people who do not have their own home to go to pray. Most of the time, it can be done right here at home. For this room, the entire shrine was merely a niche in the wall where the gods were placed, not a whole room to itself.

The chai was great - hot milk with a bit of tea powder, sugar, and cardamom mixed in; and then we were off to pick up Mehnoush from work.